RV Tips Archives - RV Inspection And Care

4 RV Dealer Lies That Can Cost Buyers Thousands

Buying an RV should be an exciting experience. But all too often buyers have to deal with RV dealer lies.

And unfortunately, it can become an expensive mistake if you rely too heavily on everything an RV salesperson tells you.

I’m Duane, a certified RV inspector, and one thing that has always concerned me is how much trust many buyers place in an RV salesperson. They assume that the person helping them knows RVs, understands towing, and has their best interests in mind.

However, that is not always the case.

Some RV salespeople are knowledgeable, experienced, and honest. But others are primarily focused on making the sale and earning their commission.

That means they may tell you what you want to hear, even when the information is incomplete, misleading, or simply untrue.

So let’s examine four common RV dealer lies and deceptions that can cost buyers thousands of dollars. More importantly, I’ll explain how you can protect yourself from each one.

Why RV Buyers Should Be Careful at the Dealership

An RV is a complicated purchase because you are buying much more than a vehicle or trailer.

You are also buying plumbing, electrical, heating, cooling, propane, wastewater, and appliance systems. In the case of a towable RV, you must also determine whether your vehicle can handle the trailer safely.

And many RVs cost as much as a house once did.

Despite that, some buyers do less research before purchasing an RV than they would before buying a new television. They visit a dealership, find an RV that looks attractive, and allow the salesperson to guide most of the decision.

But the salesperson works for the dealership, not for you.

Their job is to sell RVs, arrange financing, and help the dealership earn a profit. That does not automatically make them dishonest, but it does mean that you must verify the information they give you.

The more you know before arriving at the dealership, the less likely you are to fall for these common RV salesman lies.

RV Dealer Lies #1: “Your Vehicle Can Definitely Tow This RV”

This is one of the most common and potentially dangerous statements made to RV buyers.

You show the salesperson your truck, SUV, or other tow vehicle, and they assure you that it can easily pull the RV you want. Sometimes they may reach that conclusion after asking only what make and model you own.

However, matching a tow vehicle to a trailer is not that simple.

Towing Capacity Is Only One Part of the Calculation

A vehicle’s advertised maximum towing capacity is important, but it is not the only number that matters.

You also need to consider:

The vehicle’s payload capacity
The trailer’s loaded weight
Tongue weight or pin weight
The weight of passengers
Cargo carried in the tow vehicle
Accessories added to the vehicle
The vehicle’s gross combined weight rating
The ratings of the hitch, tires, and axles

Two trucks that look almost identical can have very different towing and payload capacities. Engine size, drivetrain, axle ratio, cab configuration, bed length, and installed equipment can all affect the ratings.

So a salesperson usually cannot determine whether your vehicle is suitable simply by looking at it in the parking lot.

Dry Weight Can Be Misleading

Another common RV dealer trick is focusing only on the trailer’s unloaded or “dry” weight.

The dry weight normally does not include all the camping gear, food, water, propane, batteries, and other items you will add. Therefore, the RV can weigh substantially more when you are ready to travel.

And that added weight can also increase the amount of tongue or pin weight placed on your tow vehicle.

This is why buying based solely on dry weight can leave you with a trailer that is too heavy for your vehicle. In fact, it is one of the biggest travel trailer buying mistakes that buyers make.

What Happens If You Buy Too Much RV?

Some buyers do not discover the mismatch until after they have signed the paperwork and taken the RV home.

Then they are left with two unpleasant choices.

They can sell or trade the RV, which may produce an immediate financial loss. Or they can replace their tow vehicle with a more capable one, which could cost tens of thousands of dollars.

Neither choice is good.

So research RV towing capacity before you visit the dealership. Find the specific ratings for your vehicle and calculate how passengers, cargo, tongue weight, and other loads affect its capacity.

Do not allow a salesperson’s verbal assurance to replace the actual numbers.

RV Dealer Lies #2: “We Can Give You the Best Financing Available”

The dealership may tell you that its finance department can offer a lower interest rate than anyone else.

Is this just one of the RV dealer lies they tell?

Well, actually that could be true. However, you should never automatically assume that dealer-arranged RV financing is your least expensive option.

The finance office can be one of the dealership’s biggest profit centers. In addition to arranging the loan, it may sell extended service contracts, protection packages, insurance products, and other add-ons.

Why the Monthly Payment Can Be Misleading

Some buyers focus mainly on whether the monthly payment fits their budget.

However, the dealership can lower that payment by extending the length of the loan. A longer loan term may make an expensive RV appear affordable, but it can also greatly increase the amount of interest you pay.

Even worse, you may owe more on the RV than it is worth for many years.

This is especially important because RVs generally depreciate quickly. If you decide to sell or trade the RV while you are upside down on the loan, you may have to bring a substantial amount of money to the transaction.

Therefore, do not evaluate an RV loan by monthly payment alone.

Look carefully at:

The interest rate
The length of the loan
The total amount financed
The total interest paid
Loan fees
Prepayment penalties, if any
Optional products added to the contract

Arrange Financing Before Visiting the Dealership

One of the best ways to protect yourself is to speak with your bank or credit union before shopping for an RV.

If you have good credit and an established relationship with a financial institution, you may be able to obtain an attractive rate on your own. You will also have a financing offer you can use for comparison.

Then, if the dealership truly offers better terms, you can choose its financing. But if it does not, you already have another option available.

Arranging financing in advance also helps you establish a realistic budget. That makes it easier to resist the temptation to buy more RV than you can comfortably afford.

RV Dealer Lies #3: “This Older New RV Is an Incredible Deal”

You may visit a dealership to look at the current model-year RVs, only to have a salesperson direct you toward an older unit.

They may tell you that the older RV is essentially the same and that buying it will save you a large amount of money.

And sometimes it really can be a good deal.

However, you need to understand why the dealership is eager to sell it.

Why Dealers Want to Move Older Inventory

An RV that has remained on the lot through one or more model years ties up the dealership’s money. The dealer may also be paying interest and other expenses while the RV remains unsold.

Therefore, salespeople may be given special incentives to move aging inventory.

The discount may be legitimate, but that does not automatically make the RV a smart purchase. Before proceeding, find out how long the RV has been on the lot and why it has not sold.

You should also compare the discounted price with the market value of that specific model year. Even though the RV has never been titled, it is still an older model and should be priced accordingly.

The Danger of RV Lot Rot

RVs do not necessarily remain in perfect condition while sitting unused on a dealership lot.

They may spend months or even years exposed to intense sunlight, rain, snow, freezing temperatures, and temperature changes. Meanwhile, seals can begin to deteriorate, batteries can discharge, tires can age, and moisture can find its way inside.

This deterioration is often called lot rot.

A neglected RV may also develop problems with appliances, plumbing fixtures, slideouts, generators, and other components that need regular operation or care.

And because the RV is technically new, buyers sometimes assume that all of these systems must be in excellent condition.

That can be an expensive assumption.

When an Older New RV May Be Worth Buying

An unsold previous-model-year RV is not automatically a bad choice.

If the discount is large enough and the RV is in excellent condition, it could provide good value. However, the discount must justify buying an older model, and you need to verify the RV’s condition before signing anything.

Look closely for:

Cracked or deteriorated exterior sealant
Evidence of water intrusion
Weathered or damaged tires
Weak or neglected batteries
Faded or damaged exterior surfaces
Rust or corrosion
Malfunctioning appliances
Plumbing leaks
Slideout or awning problems
Signs that rodents or insects have entered the RV

You can also learn more about how to spot good and bad new RV quality before visiting the dealership.

Most importantly, have the RV independently inspected. A discounted price is not a bargain if you immediately inherit thousands of dollars in repairs.

RV Dealer Lies #4: “Our PDI Is Just as Good as an Independent Inspection”

This is more than a misleading sales claim. In many cases, it is simply untrue.

A dealer’s pre-delivery inspection, commonly called a PDI, is not the same as an inspection performed for the buyer by a qualified independent RV inspector.

What Is an RV Pre-Delivery Inspection?

The dealership’s PDI is generally intended to prepare the RV for delivery.

Its staff may check certain systems, correct obvious problems, clean the RV, and make sure it is ready for the customer walkthrough. The thoroughness of this process can vary enormously from one dealer to another.

Some dealerships do a reasonably good job. Others perform only a limited check, and a few may do very little unless the buyer points out a problem.

The person conducting the PDI may also have limited training or experience.

And there is another important difference: The dealership is inspecting its own product.

How an Independent RV Inspection Is Different

An independent inspector works for the buyer.

A qualified inspector normally spends hours examining the RV from top to bottom. The inspection may include the roof, exterior, interior, plumbing, electrical components, appliances, life-safety equipment, and other accessible systems.

The buyer then receives a detailed report explaining the inspector’s findings.

The goal is not to prepare the RV for delivery. It is to give the buyer an independent assessment of the RV’s condition before the purchase is completed.

That information can help you decide whether to continue with the transaction, request repairs, renegotiate the price, or walk away.

This is especially important with new RVs because “new” does not always mean problem-free. RVs can leave the factory with incomplete work, damaged components, poorly installed equipment, and other defects.

My Buying an RV resource page has more information on comparing RVs, evaluating quality, and making sure problems are corrected before delivery.

What If the Dealer Refuses an Outside Inspection?

Occasionally, a dealer will refuse to allow an independent RV inspection on its property.

The salesperson may claim that the dealership’s PDI is all you need or that outside inspectors are not permitted.

If that happens, my recommendation is simple: Find another dealer.

A dealer that is confident in its RVs should not be afraid of a qualified inspector examining one before the sale. Refusing an independent inspection raises serious questions about the dealership’s priorities and what it may not want you to discover.

You are preparing to spend a substantial amount of money. You should not be pressured into accepting only the seller’s opinion about the condition of the product being sold.

Not Every RV Salesperson Is Dishonest

It is important to be fair here.

Not every RV salesperson will lie to you or intentionally provide misleading information. There are knowledgeable and ethical salespeople in the RV industry, especially those who have years of experience and understand the importance of long-term customer relationships.

A good salesperson will acknowledge when they do not know the answer to a technical question. They will help you find reliable information instead of making something up.

They will also give you time to conduct research, compare financing, and arrange an independent inspection.

However, too many dealerships have adopted high-pressure tactics associated with the car sales industry. Their focus is on completing the transaction quickly instead of building a lasting relationship with the customer.

This can be especially common at some large national RV dealership chains, where sales volume and short-term profit may be the primary goals.

So listen to the salesperson, but verify important claims independently.

How to Protect Yourself From RV Dealer Lies And Tricks

The best defense against RV dealer lies is preparation.

Do your research before walking onto the lot. Begin by deciding what type of RV fits your intended travel style, camping preferences, storage situation, and budget.

Next, research manufacturers, brands, models, and model years. My RV brand and model resources can help you narrow your search before visiting dealerships.

If you are buying a towable RV, calculate your vehicle’s real towing and payload limitations in advance.

Then arrange outside financing so you can compare the dealer’s offer with another lender. And before signing a purchase agreement, make sure you understand whether your deposit is refundable and whether the sale is contingent on an acceptable independent inspection.

Finally, slow the process down.

High-pressure RV sales tactics depend on getting you to make an emotional decision before you have time to investigate. A good RV should still be a good choice after you have researched it, reviewed the numbers, and slept on the decision.

Frequently Asked Questions About RV Dealer Lies

Can I trust an RV salesperson?

Some RV salespeople are knowledgeable and honest, but you should independently verify important claims about towing, financing, warranties, and the RV’s condition. Remember that the salesperson represents the dealership and earns money by completing the sale.

Can an RV dealer tell me whether my truck can tow a trailer?

A salesperson may offer an opinion, but you should not rely on it without checking the actual ratings for your specific vehicle. Towing capacity, payload, tongue or pin weight, passengers, cargo, and the trailer’s loaded weight must all be considered.

Is dealer financing always more expensive?

No. A dealership may sometimes offer the best loan available, especially when a manufacturer or lender is running a promotion. However, obtaining an offer from your bank or credit union gives you a reliable comparison and prevents you from having only one financing option.

Is a previous-model-year RV still considered new?

An RV may be sold as new if it has never been titled, even if it is one or more model years old. However, its age affects its market value, and extended outdoor storage may have caused deterioration.

What is RV lot rot?

RV lot rot is the deterioration that can occur while an RV sits unused on a dealer lot. Common problems include aging tires, discharged batteries, deteriorated sealant, water intrusion, corrosion, fading, pest damage, and malfunctioning equipment.

Is a dealer PDI the same as an independent RV inspection?

No. A dealership’s pre-delivery inspection is performed by or for the seller to prepare the RV for delivery. An independent RV inspection is performed for the buyer and is intended to provide an impartial evaluation of the RV’s condition.

Should I buy from a dealer that refuses an independent inspection?

I would not recommend it. Refusing to allow a qualified independent inspection is a major warning sign. There are other dealerships that will respect your right to verify the RV’s condition before completing the purchase.

Conclusion

Buying the right RV can lead to years of enjoyable travel. But buying the wrong one can leave you with towing problems, excessive debt, unexpected repairs, and a major financial loss.

So do not allow an RV salesperson to make important decisions for you.

Verify your towing numbers, arrange financing in advance, carefully evaluate older inventory, and insist on an independent RV inspection before you buy.

Most of all, be willing to walk away.

The goal is not merely to buy an RV. The goal is to buy the right RV, at the right price, and in the right condition so you can enjoy safe and happy travels for years to come.

RV Recalls: How Serious Are They and What Should You Do?

RV recalls are not something most owners enjoy thinking about. However, every owner needs to understand what they mean, how to find them, and what to do when affected.

Some RV recalls involve relatively simple corrections. Others involve serious hazards such as fire, loss of braking, tire failure, steering problems, propane leaks, or structural failures.

So an RV recall should never be ignored. But you should not panic just because you discover one, either.

Learn what the recall involves, follow its safety instructions, and arrange the required repair promptly. Here is the process I recommend.

What Is an RV Safety Recall?

The National Highway Traffic Safety Administration, usually called NHTSA, oversees safety recalls involving motor vehicles and related equipment in the United States. That includes motorhomes, travel trailers, fifth wheels, tires, and many components installed in RVs.

A safety recall is issued when a vehicle or related equipment has a safety defect or does not comply with a federal motor vehicle safety standard.

Not every product problem becomes a safety recall. An RV can have an expensive quality or appliance problem without meeting the definition of a safety defect.

Manufacturers may also conduct customer-service campaigns or technical service programs that are separate from formal NHTSA safety recalls. Therefore, it is wise to ask the RV manufacturer about all open campaigns connected with your unit, not just federal recalls.

How Serious Can an RV Recall Be?

RV recalls vary considerably in severity. One recall might require a new warning label or a simple adjustment, while another may involve a condition that could cause a crash, fire, injury, or death.

For example, a recall could affect an RV frame, axle, suspension part, hitch, tire, braking system, electrical connection, refrigerator, water heater, propane component, emergency exit, or another piece of safety equipment.

The recall notice should explain the safety risk and the remedy. It may also contain urgent directions such as do not drive, stop using the appliance, or park the RV outside and away from structures until the problem is corrected.

Take those instructions literally. Do not continue traveling or using an affected component simply because it appears to be working normally.

You can find more information about everyday hazards in my article on the top RV safety dangers.

Why Are RV Recalls So Common?

RVs are complex products. Even a relatively small travel trailer combines a frame, running gear, electrical wiring, propane equipment, plumbing, appliances, furnishings, windows, doors, and many other systems.

And unlike most passenger vehicles, RVs still involve a significant amount of hands-on assembly. That creates opportunities for variations in workmanship and installation from one unit to another.

There is no question that high production pressure and weak quality control can contribute to defects. However, that is only part of the explanation.

Most RV manufacturers buy important components from a limited group of suppliers. If a widely used refrigerator, water heater, axle, window, tire, or electrical part has a safety defect, the same recall can affect many RV brands and manufacturers.

Motorhomes can be even more complicated because recalls may originate with the chassis manufacturer, the final-stage RV manufacturer, or a supplier whose equipment was installed in the coach.

Does a Long Recall List Mean an RV Is Poorly Built?

Not necessarily. Recall history is useful information, but the number of recalls alone is not a complete measure of RV quality.

A large manufacturer may appear in more recalls simply because it produces far more RVs. And one defective supplier component can place many models on recall even if the RV builder did not manufacture that component.

On the other hand, repeated recalls involving serious defects, poor remedies, or similar problems may deserve closer investigation. So consider the nature and pattern of the recalls rather than relying only on a total count.

Who Can Issue an RV Recall?

An RV manufacturer or equipment manufacturer may voluntarily decide that a safety defect exists and conduct a recall. Manufacturers have compliance and safety responsibilities that include investigating problems and reporting qualifying defects.

NHTSA can also investigate a potential safety problem. Consumer complaints, manufacturer information, testing, incident data, and other evidence may contribute to an investigation and recall decision.

There is not a fixed number of complaints that automatically triggers an investigation or recall. NHTSA reviews the available information to determine whether a possible safety-defect trend exists.

Once a recall is established, the manufacturer must notify affected owners and provide a remedy. Depending on the circumstances, the remedy may involve repair, replacement, a refund, or, in rare cases, repurchase.

How RV Owners Are Notified About Recalls

Manufacturers normally send recall notices to owners using the contact information available in their records. Dealers are also notified so they can identify affected inventory and perform the remedy.

But those records are not always current. People move, change email addresses, and sell their RVs, so a recall letter may never reach the present owner.

This is especially important if you bought a used RV. The RV manufacturer may still have the original purchaser’s name and address, with no record that you now own the unit.

So contact the manufacturer and register yourself as the current owner. Give them the RV’s vehicle identification number, your name, and your current contact information.

If you own a motorhome, it is also wise to update the chassis manufacturer’s records when applicable. And if you have an important appliance or piece of equipment with its own product registration, update that manufacturer as well.

How to Check an RV for Open Recalls

Do not rely entirely on receiving a letter. The most proactive approach is to check for RV recalls yourself.

Visit the official NHTSA recall lookup page and enter the 17-character vehicle identification number, or VIN, for the RV. Depending on the vehicle and available records, the tool may also allow a license-plate search.

You can usually find the VIN on the RV’s federal certification label, registration, title, or insurance documents. A motorhome may also display it near the windshield or driver area.

If you cannot find the correct number, contact the manufacturer. Do not confuse a floorplan, model, stock, or appliance serial number with the RV’s VIN.

Also Search by Make, Model, and Equipment

The VIN search is the best starting point for determining whether a particular RV has an open safety recall. But NHTSA also lets you search by year, make, and model, as well as for tires and other vehicle-related equipment.

That additional research can be valuable for an RV. A recall could involve an appliance or component, and motorhome owners may need to consider both the completed coach and its underlying chassis.

If your RV contains an item named in an equipment recall, compare its model and serial number with the affected range. Contact the equipment manufacturer if you are unsure.

Understand the Limits of a VIN Recall Search

A result showing 0 unrepaired recalls associated with this VIN is encouraging, but it does not provide a complete lifetime history of the RV.

According to NHTSA, a VIN search generally does not display recalls that have already been repaired. It may also omit some recently announced recalls whose affected VINs are still being identified, recalls more than 15 years old, and recalls from certain small or specialty manufacturers.

The lookup also does not show manufacturer customer-service campaigns that are not safety recalls. So if you have questions, contact the RV, chassis, or component manufacturer directly.

NHTSA recommends checking regularly because recall information can change. Its free SaferCar app can also monitor saved vehicles and equipment and notify you when a new safety recall is announced.

What to Do When Your RV Has an Open Recall

Finding a recall does not mean that your RV is ruined or that you should immediately sell it. It means you need to understand the risk and follow the specified remedy process.

Here are the steps I recommend.

1. Read the Entire Recall Notice

Start by reading the recall description, affected models or VIN range, safety risk, warning signs, and remedy instructions.

Pay special attention to any direction telling you not to drive, not to use an appliance, or to park outside. Those instructions take priority over your travel plans.

2. Contact the Appropriate Manufacturer

Call the RV manufacturer and provide your VIN and recall number. For a motorhome chassis or separately recalled appliance, you may need to contact that manufacturer instead.

Ask whether your exact RV is affected, what the remedy involves, whether parts are available, and which authorized repair facilities can perform the work.

3. Schedule the Recall Repair Promptly

Once you know where the work can be done, make the appointment as soon as possible. RV service departments can have long waiting lists, and recall parts may not always be immediately available.

But a delayed appointment does not make the risk disappear. Ask the manufacturer what precautions you should take while waiting and whether the RV can be safely moved or used.

4. Confirm the Cost Before Work Begins

Safety-recall remedies are generally performed at no charge to the owner. However, confirm that the facility is authorized and that the scheduled work is being processed as a recall repair.

If someone attempts to charge you for the official remedy, contact the manufacturer before authorizing payment. Separate maintenance or unrelated repairs discovered during the appointment may still be your responsibility.

5. Keep the Completed-Repair Paperwork

After the work is finished, keep the repair order showing the recall number, VIN, date, mileage if applicable, and remedy performed.

Store a paper copy with your RV records and consider keeping a digital copy too. That documentation can help if the database is slow to update, questions arise later, or you eventually sell the RV.

Good documentation is part of responsible RV ownership, just like following a sensible RV maintenance and safety routine.

What If You Discover a Possible Safety Defect?

If your RV develops a problem that appears to create a safety risk, report it even if no recall currently exists. Your complaint could help NHTSA recognize a broader pattern affecting other owners.

You can use NHTSA’s website to report a safety problem or contact its Vehicle Safety Hotline at 888-327-4236. Provide clear facts about the RV, component, incident, and any injuries, fire, crash, or property damage.

You should also notify the appropriate manufacturer. Keep photographs, repair reports, receipts, and written communications connected with the problem.

Check for RV Recalls Before You Buy

A recall check should be part of the research process whenever you are considering another RV, especially a used one.

Ask the seller for the VIN before you spend money on travel, deposits, or an inspection. Search it on NHTSA’s website and contact the manufacturer about anything you find.

Then ask the seller for repair orders proving that completed recalls were properly remedied. Remember, a VIN result showing no open recalls does not necessarily prove that every past recall was completed, because repaired recalls normally disappear from the open-recall results.

An open recall is not always a reason to reject the RV. If the remedy is straightforward, available, and properly completed before purchase, the issue may be resolved without much difficulty.

However, a serious unresolved recall, unavailable repair parts, or a long list of outstanding work should make you slow down. You need to understand how long the RV may be unusable and who will be responsible for getting everything corrected.

For more help evaluating a potential purchase, visit my Buying an RV resource page.

A Recall Search Does Not Replace an RV Inspection

A recall search and a professional RV inspection serve two different purposes.

The recall search identifies known defects covered by formal campaigns. An inspection evaluates that particular RV, including problems that would never appear in a recall database.

So check the recall history early. If the RV remains a good candidate, hire an independent certified RV inspector before completing the purchase.

You can learn more about why that matters in my article explaining three reasons a certified RV inspection is a smart choice.

Frequently Asked Questions About RV Recalls

Are RV recall repairs free?

The official safety-recall remedy is generally provided without charge. Confirm the process with the manufacturer and use an authorized repair facility, because unrelated repairs or maintenance may not be covered.

Do RV recalls expire?

NHTSA states that a safety recall itself does not expire. However, VIN lookup results may not display recalls more than 15 years old, and free-remedy eligibility can involve additional legal and manufacturer-specific details.

Contact the manufacturer directly about an older RV or recall rather than assuming that no assistance is available.

Will NHTSA’s VIN search show completed recalls?

Usually not. The VIN tool is designed primarily to show unrepaired safety recalls associated with that specific VIN.

Ask the manufacturer and review the RV’s service records if you need confirmation that an earlier recall was completed.

Can an RV have more than one relevant recall source?

Yes. A motorhome can be affected by a chassis recall, a final-stage RV manufacturer recall, or a component recall.

Towable RVs can also contain recalled tires, appliances, axles, windows, and other equipment. That is why checking the VIN, make and model, and important equipment is useful.

Should I stop using my RV when I find a recall?

Follow the instructions in the recall notice. Some recalls permit normal use until the appointment, while others warn owners not to drive, not to use a component, or to park outside.

If the notice is unclear, contact the manufacturer before moving or using the RV.

Is an open recall a reason not to buy a used RV?

Not automatically. First determine the severity of the defect, whether the remedy and parts are available, and whether the repair can be completed before the sale.

If the problem is serious or the solution is uncertain, it may be wiser to consider another RV.

Conclusion

RV recalls can be inconvenient, but they are an essential part of protecting owners and everyone else on the road. The worst approach is to assume that no letter means no recall.

Register your contact information with the RV manufacturer, check your VIN at NHTSA.gov/recalls, and investigate the chassis and major equipment when appropriate. If you find an open recall, read the notice carefully, contact the manufacturer, and arrange the remedy promptly.

And make recall research part of every future RV purchase. Check before hiring an inspector, but remember that a clean recall search does not replace a thorough independent inspection.

That simple routine can help you catch a serious safety problem before it puts your RV, your family, or other travelers at risk.

Have safe and happy travels, my friends!

What Size Generator Do I Need for My RV?

Choosing the right RV generator can be confusing. So it’s easy to ask – “What size generator do I need for my RV?”

Well, you have to consider watts, amps, battery charging, air conditioners, and whether your RV has 30-amp or 50-amp service.

But the decision becomes much easier when you focus on one simple question: What do you actually want the generator to power?

Some RV owners only need to recharge their batteries while boondocking. Others want to run an air conditioner or enjoy almost the same experience they have on campground shore power.

Each goal calls for a different size. So let’s determine what size generator you need for your RV.

What size generator do I need for my RV? - A video on the subject.

How an RV Gets Electrical Power

Most RVs use both 12-volt direct current, usually called DC power, and 120-volt alternating current, usually called AC power.

Your RV house batteries supply 12-volt DC power. Depending on the RV and its equipment, that power can operate lights, control boards, the water pump, vent fans, the furnace blower, and other important components.

However, some appliances may use propane while relying on 12-volt electricity for their controls. And a 12-volt compressor refrigerator can draw much more battery power than a propane absorption refrigerator, so every RV is a little different.

The problem with battery power is that once electricity leaves the batteries, it eventually has to be replaced. In other words, you need a way to recharge your RV battery bank.

Shore Power, Solar Power, and Generators

One way to recharge the batteries is to connect the RV to shore power at a campground or RV park.

Your RV’s converter then changes some of that 120-volt AC power into 12-volt DC power for the RV and its batteries.

An RV converter changes 120 volt power to 12 volt power

If you would like a clearer explanation of that process, read my article on the difference between an RV converter and inverter.

Solar panels are another popular option. They can recharge the batteries when sufficient sunlight is available, and they are especially useful for RVers who camp off-grid regularly.

However, solar production varies with the weather, the season, shade, and the size of the system. So many boondockers still carry a generator as either their primary charging source or a backup.

A generator can also directly supply 120-volt AC power. That means it can operate wall receptacles, microwave ovens, air conditioners, and other AC equipment within its limits.

An inverter and sufficiently large battery bank can also power AC equipment. But that requires a properly designed system with enough battery capacity, inverter capacity, wiring, and a reliable way to replace the energy being consumed.

What Determines the Right RV Generator Size?

The best generator size depends mainly on the electrical loads you want to operate at the same time.

And here is the general rule to remember: The more equipment you want to run simultaneously, the larger the generator must be. A larger generator will usually be heavier, more expensive, and more fuel-hungry too.

So buying the biggest portable generator you can find is not always the best answer. The goal is to buy enough capacity for the way you camp without carrying unnecessary weight or spending more than needed.

Understand Running Watts and Starting Watts

Before comparing generator sizes, it is important to understand the difference between running watts and starting watts.

Running watts describe the power a generator can supply continuously. Starting watts, sometimes called surge or peak watts, describe the extra power it can supply briefly when a motor-driven appliance starts.

An RV air conditioner is the most common example. It requires a surge of power when its compressor starts and then uses less power while running.

For that reason, never choose a generator based only on the large wattage number printed prominently on the box. Check both its continuous running-watt rating and its starting-watt rating.

You should also leave yourself a reasonable safety margin. Operating a generator at or near its maximum output for long periods is not an ideal plan, especially in hot weather or at higher elevations where some engines produce less power.

How Much Power Does a 30-Amp RV Have?

A 30-amp RV uses one 120-volt line of electrical power. To estimate its maximum wattage, multiply volts by amps:

120 volts × 30 amps = 3,600 watts

So a 30-amp RV can theoretically use up to 3,600 watts at one time when connected to a full 30-amp shore-power source.

What size generator do I need for my RV? - 30 amp RVs have a limit of 3600 watts of usable power

However, that does not mean you always use 3,600 watts. Many RV owners operate far below that level most of the time.

It also does not mean that a generator advertised with 3,600 peak watts can continuously replace a 30-amp pedestal. Its continuous rating must be high enough for the loads you plan to run.

How Much Power Does a 50-Amp RV Have?

A 50-amp RV has two separate 120-volt power lines. Each line can provide as much as 50 amps.

That gives the RV a theoretical total capacity of:

120 volts × 50 amps × 2 lines = 12,000 watts

What size generator do I need for my RV? - 50 amp RVs have a limit of 12,000 watts of usable power

That is much more electrical capacity than a 30-amp RV provides. It explains why large fifth wheels and motorhomes can have multiple air conditioners, residential refrigerators, electric water heaters, fireplaces, washers, dryers, and other high-demand equipment.

But most owners do not use the full 12,000 watts continuously. Therefore, owning a 50-amp RV does not automatically mean that you need a 12,000-watt generator.

Generator Size for Charging RV Batteries

Suppose you only want a generator to recharge your RV house batteries while camping without hookups. You plan to operate your normal 12-volt equipment from the batteries and do not intend to run an air conditioner or several large AC appliances.

In that situation, a 2,000-watt inverter generator is usually a very practical choice. It provides ample capacity for most RV converter-chargers while remaining relatively compact, portable, and fuel-efficient.

Your actual charging time will depend on the battery type, battery-bank capacity, state of charge, and output of your converter or battery charger. A larger generator does not necessarily charge the batteries faster if the charging equipment cannot use the extra power.

For many boondockers, running a small generator for a while in the morning and again later in the day can replace much of the power they have used. However, the exact schedule will vary, especially if the RV has a large battery bank or a power-hungry 12-volt refrigerator.

To learn more about choosing the battery bank itself, see my guide to the best RV batteries for the house and chassis.

Generator Size for One RV Air Conditioner

Now suppose you want to recharge the batteries and have the ability to run one RV air conditioner when the weather becomes hot.

For reliable operation in a wide range of conditions, a generator in the 3,000-to-3,600-watt range is usually the better choice. This gives you more room for the air conditioner’s starting surge and for smaller electrical loads that may operate at the same time.

The exact requirement depends on the air conditioner’s BTU rating, efficiency, age, and starting characteristics. It also depends on whether another major load—such as the microwave, electric water heater, or converter—is running.

Some RV owners operate one air conditioner from a smaller 2,000-watt generator, especially after installing an approved soft-start device. A soft start reduces the compressor’s startup demand, but it does not reduce the air conditioner’s normal running consumption nearly as dramatically.

So you still need to compare the generator’s ratings with the air-conditioner manufacturer’s electrical specifications. And before adding a soft start, check whether the modification could affect the appliance warranty.

Manage Other Loads While the Air Conditioner Runs

Even with a 3,000-to-3,600-watt generator, you may need to manage your electrical use.

For example, avoid using the microwave at the same time as the air conditioner if their combined load approaches the generator’s continuous capacity. You can also switch the refrigerator and water heater to propane, if they are designed for it, to reduce AC demand.

This kind of load management is normal in a 30-amp RV, even when you are connected to shore power.

Generator Size for a 30-Amp RV

If you want to come reasonably close to replacing a 30-amp campground connection, look for a generator that can provide approximately 3,600 continuous watts at the correct 120-volt output.

That does not guarantee that every appliance can start at the same moment. But with sensible load management, it can power most of what a typical 30-amp RV is designed to operate.

Remember to confirm the continuous rating, receptacle type, and adapter arrangement before buying. A generator’s peak rating alone does not tell you how much power it can deliver continuously to the RV.

Generator Size for a 50-Amp RV

A 50-amp RV presents a different challenge because its shore-power service can supply as much as 12,000 watts. Fortunately, most owners do not need to duplicate all of that capacity while camping away from hookups.

If your only goal is battery charging, the same 2,000-watt inverter generator that works for a smaller RV may be enough. If you want to run one air conditioner, a 3,000-to-3,600-watt model may still meet your needs.

However, if you want to run multiple air conditioners and use most of the RV much as you would on shore power, a built-in generator around 8,000 watts is common in larger motorhomes. That capacity can support many normal loads, although you may still need to avoid operating every high-demand appliance simultaneously.

Large built-in generators are heavy and expensive, but the RV manufacturer accounts for their installation, fuel supply, exhaust system, ventilation, and controls. Cummins Onan is one of the best-known manufacturers in this category, and you can learn more in my article about Cummins Onan RV generators.

A Quick RV Generator Size Guide

Here is a simple way to narrow down your choices:

Battery charging and light AC use: A 2,000-watt inverter generator is often sufficient.
Battery charging plus one RV air conditioner: Consider roughly 3,000 to 3,600 watts, depending on the air conditioner and other loads.
Most of the capability of a 30-amp connection: Look for about 3,600 continuous watts and manage simultaneous loads.
Multiple air conditioners and extensive use in a large 50-amp RV: A built-in generator around 8,000 watts is a common solution.
The full theoretical capacity of 50-amp shore power: Up to 12,000 watts, although very few RVers need to duplicate it.

These figures are useful starting points, but your appliances and camping habits should make the final decision.

Why an Inverter Generator Is Usually Best for RV Use

If you are buying a portable generator for camping, I strongly recommend choosing an inverter generator.

Open-frame construction generators are designed mainly for jobsites and emergency work. They are often much louder, which nearby campers will not appreciate.

Construction style generators are not good choice for most RVs

Inverter generators are generally quieter and can adjust engine speed according to demand. They also provide stable power that is well suited to the electronic equipment found in modern RVs.

Of course, no portable generator is silent. Always obey campground generator-hour and noise rules, and be considerate of everyone around you.

For a more detailed comparison, see my guide to the pros and cons of RV inverter generators.

Important Generator Safety Reminders

Never operate a portable generator inside an RV, basement compartment, truck bed with a cover, garage, or other enclosed or partly enclosed area. Generator exhaust contains carbon monoxide, which can cause severe injury or death.

Place the generator outdoors and well away from doors, windows, vents, and neighboring RVs, following the generator manufacturer’s instructions. Also make sure your RV has working carbon-monoxide detectors.

Use the correct heavy-duty cord and properly rated adapters for the connection. And never improvise a connection that could energize exposed contacts or backfeed an electrical system.

Finally, protect the generator from rain and weather without enclosing it or restricting the airflow it needs for cooling and safe exhaust dispersal.

You can find more practical information about RV electricity, generators, air conditioning, and other components on my RV Systems and Equipment page.

Frequently Asked Questions About RV Generator Size

Will a 2,000-watt generator run an RV air conditioner?

Sometimes it can, especially with an efficient air conditioner and a properly installed soft start. However, the available margin may be small, and other electrical loads may have to be turned off.

For more dependable operation, a generator in the 3,000-to-3,600-watt range is usually a better choice for running one RV air conditioner.

Is a 3,500-watt generator enough for a 30-amp RV?

It is enough for many normal uses, but check whether 3,500 watts is the generator’s continuous or peak rating. You may still need to manage large loads, especially when the air conditioner, microwave, and electric water heater could overlap.

Can I use a small generator with a 50-amp RV?

Yes. The RV’s 50-amp rating describes the maximum power it can accept, not the minimum power it requires.

With the correct connection and careful load management, a small generator can charge the batteries or operate selected equipment in a 50-amp RV.

Do I need an 8,000-watt generator for every 50-amp RV?

No. An 8,000-watt generator makes sense when you want to operate multiple air conditioners and many of the conveniences of a large RV while away from shore power.

If you only need battery charging or one air conditioner, a much smaller generator may be all you need.

Does a bigger generator charge RV batteries faster?

Not necessarily. Charging speed is limited by the converter or charger, battery chemistry, battery temperature, and the battery’s ability to accept current.

Once the generator can comfortably supply the charger, additional generator capacity may not shorten charging time.

Should I buy a portable or built-in RV generator?

A portable inverter generator often fits towable RVs and occasional backup use. It is usually less expensive and can be removed when not needed.

A built-in generator is more convenient for larger motorhomes and frequent generator use. However, it adds cost, weight, maintenance requirements, and fuel consumption.

Conclusion

So, what size generator do you need for your RV? The answer depends much more on what you want to operate than on the size or electrical rating of the RV itself.

For battery charging, a 2,000-watt inverter generator is often a very practical choice. To run one air conditioner more reliably, move into the 3,000-to-3,600-watt range.

And if you have a large 50-amp RV and want to run multiple air conditioners along with most of your normal appliances, a built-in generator around 8,000 watts may be appropriate.

Before buying, list the appliances you expect to use at the same time. Then compare their running and starting requirements with the generator’s continuous and surge ratings, while leaving a reasonable safety margin.

That approach will help you choose an RV generator that does what you need without paying for—or carrying—far more generator than you will actually use.

Have safe and happy travels, my friends!